Sometimes our clients will ask us what to "do" with an ingredient. Often it's an herb or a spice, but several times we've all been asked about capers. What are they? And how do you use them? Well, we're here to tell you.
The caper bush (Capparis spinosa L.) is a perennial winter-deciduous species that bears rounded, fleshy leaves and big white to pinkish-white flowers. A caper is also the pickled immature bud of this plant.
Fresh caper buds are not especially flavorful, but their sharpness increases dramatically after sun-drying and brining in vinegar or packing in salt. The flavor of these processed capers are typically described as pungent and slightly astringent. We're not sure WHAT that means. Suffice it to say... a caper tastes like a caper... A little peppery, a touch of pickle and an earthy vegetal flavor.
The brined variety are the most common type sold in the US. They require a quick rinse and after that are ready to use. If you happen to come across a salted variety (almost always the larger variety of caper and from Italy) they require soaking and rinsing to get rid of the excess salt.
Capers are categorized and sold by their size, defined as follows, with the smallest sizes being the most desirable: Non-pareil (up to 7 mm), surfines (7–8 mm), capucines (8–9 mm), capotes (9–11 mm), fines (11–13 mm), and grusas (14+ mm). Typically you only see the non-pareil or capotes in stores.
If the immature blossoms are not selected to become pickled capers, after blooming they will sometimes turn into caper berries. Caper berries are not used in the same way as capers in recipes. They are more likely to be eaten as a snack or added to savory salads. After hours here at DM Cuisine they have been known to find their way into a Bloody Mary or Vodka Martini.
The Caper Bush is native to the Mediterranean region, so it's not surprising that its most often found in the cuisine of Spain, Italy, Greece and the Levant. Here are some of our favorite uses for capers. Recipes not included this time, but if you're reading this blog you've got Google...
10. Tartar Sauce or Remoulade - This classic mayonnaise based sauce for fried fish and seafood, often contains capers. Typically chopped dill pickles, onion and lemon juice join in the mix.
9. Tonnato Sauce - One of our favorite things, but not widely known outside of Italy. This is a thinly sliced veal roast, served cold, with a smooth sauce of pureed cooked tuna, mayonnaise, capers, lemon and anchovies. Don't knock it until you've tried it
8. Hallaca and Empanada Filling - Here's another dish you may not know, but Empanadas are probably familiar. An Hallaca can be thought of as a large Venezuelan style tamal, wrapped in banana leaves. Inside the corn "masa" is a stew of beef, pork and chicken, seasoned with capers, olives and raisins. Similarly the fillings for empanadas all over South and Central America typically include capers as part of their seasoning. We assume it's a reflection of the Spanish influence.
7. Pasta Salad - A generous spoonful of capers can add a bright note to any pasta salad, especially one featuring fresh or sun dried tomatoes. Capers also seem to have a naturally affinity for many herbs, especially basil, parsley and chives.
6. Smoked Salmon Bagels with Caper Cream Cheese - We always sprinkle a few capers over smoked salmon, and processing them right into the cream cheese for a bagel makes nothing but good sense.
5. Tapenade - Capers add the final fillip here to a French culinary classic. Black Olives, Anchovies, Garlic, Mustard and Olive Oil.
4. Roasted Cauliflower with Roasted Red Peppers and Capers - This has been a DM Cuisine stand by for many years. It's exactly what it says, garnished with some rough chopped flat parsley leaves.
3. Salmon Salad - Should you ever be blessed with some left over grilled or roasted salmon, mix up a fresh salmon salad and remember to add lots of fresh lemon juice, dill and capers.
2. Lemon Caper Sauce - Sometimes this bright light sauce is just what we want over a chicken paillard or simply sauteed piece of fish, say Branzino or Red Snapper. A little stock, splash of white wine, squeeze of lemon and a spoonful of capers, reduced in a saute pan over high heat. Salt, Pepper and a knob of butter swirled in off the heat.
1. Salsa Verde - This we are ready to spoon over anything.... Fish, Chicken, Steak, Grilled Vegetables, Ravioli, Shrimp, and on and on. Throw handfuls of parsley, some lemon zest, toasted pine nuts, garlic, capers, lemon juice and some olive oil in the food processor and whir it into a smooth paste. Drizzle in a tablespoon of water while processing and you'll have the cleanest, greenest, most flavorful deliciousness that's ALMOST too good to share.
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